Naxos is the Greek island that often flies under the radar, but stays with you long after you leave! Less famous than Santorini, less of a party scene than Mykonos, it’s the kind of place where you can actually breathe. Known for having some of the best food in the Cyclades and beautiful sandy beaches, we spent 3 days there last September after 5 days on Paros, and left with one thought: we need to come back. Here are all the things we did in Naxos, with all the addresses worth knowing about.
Practical Info
How to get to Naxos
The most common way to get to Naxos is by ferry from Piraeus port in Athens. It takes around 5 hours on a standard ferry, or just under 4 hours on a high-speed one. There are also direct flights from Athens if you want to save time.
We arrived from Paros, which is only a 30-minute crossing. Before that, we’d flown from Zurich via Athens!
The wonderful view over Chora when arriving to Naxos by ferry
How to get around Naxos
Rent a car! I can’t stress this enough: Naxos is bigger than it looks, and some of the places we loved most would have been a real hassle to reach otherwise. A scooter works for short distances, but if you want to explore different parts of the island, the drives are long enough that you’ll be glad you have four wheels!
We picked up a car directly at the port through the agency AuTo Tour, which was easy to do in late September. If you’re going in July or August, book in advance through Booking, you’ll have much more options at a lower price.
Where to stay in Naxos
We stayed at Agia Anna Living, a lovely small hotel right in Agia Anna. The two women who welcomed us were so warm, the room was beautifully decorated and spotlessly clean, it was a perfect base for a few nights in Naxos. The beach is a two-minute walk away, and Chora is less than 10 minutes by car for evenings out.
One honest note: although breakfast is served in a beautiful setting right on the beach (a 10-minute walk from the hotel), the quality was a bit disappointing. We had it included through Booking.com, but if I were doing it again, I’d grab breakfast at Oregano, a lovely café nearby instead.
The best time to visit Naxos
September is my top pick! The crowds thin out, the heat is gentler, and the sea is still perfectly warm. We had gorgeous days without ever feeling overwhelmed by tourists!
That said, mid-June to mid-July is another period I love in the Cyclades: long summer days, a vibrant atmosphere… and the islands at their most alive!
Things to do in Naxos
Day 1: arrival, Agia Anna Beach and first evening in Chora
We arrived early afternoon, dropped our bags, and were on the beach twenty minutes later. Agia Anna is a relaxed, family-friendly beach with that signature Cycladic turquoise water that makes you want to stay forever. No overwhelming tourist infrastructure, just fine sand, sun loungers, a few waterfront restaurants, and people genuinely unwinding. Exactly what we needed!
In the evening, we drove to Chora, the island’s main town. I fell for it immediately! The Venetian quarter, the narrow streets climbing up toward the kastro, the small ceramic shops tucked into every corner. We wandered without a plan and I couldn’t resist picking up a little ceramic coffee cup as a souvenir.
For dinner, we chose Labyrinth Wine Restaurant and it was a great call. The restaurant is set in a small courtyard, sheltered from the street, with walls completely covered in greenery. Romantic, refined, with excellent local wine. One to bookmark!
Not to miss in Chora
A few essential stops in Naxos’ old town: the Temple of Apollo, known as the Portara, is the symbol of the island. Its massive marble doorway stands alone facing the sea, and is visible from the ferry as you arrive. It’s stunning, and it’s free. The Venetian Castle and its maze of alleyways are also worth a visit!
For shopping, Pocket Gallery is a great spot for original artisan souvenirs. If you love jewellery like I do, don’t skip Erato Art Gallery: their pieces are genuinely beautiful, rooted in local craftsmanship, and the boutique itself is lovely.
And make sure you stop at Tziblakis, a local deli selling the island’s finest products: cheeses, loukoumades, kitron (Naxos’ signature liqueur), olives, spices… I went a little overboard on edible souvenirs haha. One thing to know: in the evenings, the shop organises cheese and wine tastings, which is a wonderful way to discover the island’s flavours in a convivial setting.
Things to do in Naxos: try the local specialities
Naxos has a reputation for some of the best food in the Cyclades, and it earns it. The island is fertile and productive, and you taste that in every meal!
On the cheese side, Naxos graviera is the star! It is a firm, slightly sweet cheese with AOP status. Arseniko and kefalotyri are worth trying too, both more aged and stronger in flavour. You’ll often find them served as saganaki, pan-fried and golden.
Kitron is the island’s emblematic liqueur, made exclusively in Naxos from citron tree leaves. The green version is lighter and sweeter while the yellow is stronger. Have a small glass as a digestif after one of Naxos’ generous meals, or bring a bottle home! Either way, don’t leave without trying it.
And if you eat charcuterie, look for louza: it’s a local specialty of dried, spiced pork that’s worth picking up at Tziblakis.
If you’re visiting Greece, there are plenty of other traditional foods you should try! Have a look at my favourite Greek dishes to eat when in Greece.
Day 2: a full day at Agios Prokopios Beach
If you only make it to one beach in Naxos, Greece, make it this one! Agios Prokopios beach is a long stretch of impossibly clear water that stays relatively calm even in peak season.
We settled in late morning at the Kahlua beach bar, front row, feet in the water, a calm atmosphere surrounding us… The kind of place where hours disappear without warning! We swam, read, ate, and did absolutely nothing productive, as it should be!
In the evening, we headed back to Chora and started with drinks at AVATON 1739, a rooftop terrace with a beautiful view over Naxos port and the sea. A great spot day or night, add it to your list of things to do in Naxos!
For dinner, we went to Taverna Naxos in the old town. A well-loved address, and deservedly so: generous portions, fresh local ingredients, and a lively atmosphere in a lovely outdoor courtyard. Must-orders: the arni kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb baked in parchment) and the gemista (peppers and tomatoes stuffed with herbed rice, really delicious).
A practical tip: even in late September, getting a table at the best restaurants around 8:30pm is tricky. Book ahead, or aim for after 9:30pm. I’d definitely reserve next time.
Day 3: Maragas Beach, sunset views and dinner in a village
For our last day, we discovered Maragas beach, quieter and more local than Agios Prokopios, with a different feel that I really liked. There were some lovely rock formations in the water that I spent a good while exploring with a snorkel.
We set up for the day at Tohu beach bar restaurant. The food there was excellent! We shared some mezze and a sea bream that had the cats on the terrace absolutely riveted. Relaxed, unhurried, exactly the right pace for our last beach day.
In the late afternoon, we drove inland, and that’s where Naxos genuinely surprised us. We passed through the villages of Chalkio and Filoti, then stopped at Rotonda for sunset. The view, mountains folding down into the sea, golden light, cocktail in hand, was one of those moments that’s hard to put into words. Easily one of my favourite memories of the trip!
We then wandered through Apeiranthos, a mountain village built entirely of stone that feels like time stopped there centuries ago. Cats everywhere, cobbled paths winding between houses, small artisan shops. A note of caution though: we arrived a little late, and by that point in September the village was nearly deserted and many places had already closed. I’d recommend visiting Apeiranthos no later than late afternoon.
For dinner, we stumbled upon Drilis in Galanado, the terrace caught our eye and the smell of the barbecue did the rest. A total gem: as local as it gets, far from tourist menus, with incredible grilled meats, a classic Greek salad, and the most memorable saganaki drizzled with honey and sesame! Oh, and a very charismatic cat.
Things to do in Naxos
More beaches in Naxos worth knowing about
We didn’t get to everything, but here are the beaches worth adding to your list if you have more time in Naxos.
Plaka is often called the most beautiful beach in Naxos for its kilometres of fine sand and crystal-clear water. Kastraki beach and Mikri Vigla are ideal for quieter, more unspoiled spots. Alyko, fringed by cedar trees, is unlike anything else on the island. And for kitesurfing in Naxos, Mikri Vigla is considered one of the best spots in Greece.
Is Naxos worth visiting? My honest take
Absolutely! Naxos is an island that doesn’t try to impress you, it just does! Naturally beautiful, genuinely authentic, with food that will make you rethink every Greek meal you’ve had before. If you’re looking for a Greek island that balances great beaches, real local culture and excellent restaurants, especially as a couple, Naxos delivers on all of it. And in September, it’s even better.
If you’re looking for an alternative to Naxos, have a look at Kea, another beautiful, quiet and authentic Cycladic island just an hour away from Athens.
Any questions about our trip? Leave a comment below or find me on Instagram @thebeachmuse 💙
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